LEE COUNTY ANIMAL SERVICES
Rabbit Care
History
Rabbits originally came from Central Europe. It is not known exactly when the rabbit was domesticated, but it is believed to be about 3,000 years ago. We do know that rabbits have been on the earth for millions of years. Some fossils date back more than 30 million years. Rabbits have long survived despite their popularity as sources of meat and fur to become one of today’s most popular pets. There are over 4o different breeds of rabbits.
Housing and Habitat
The cage should be as large as possible--at least a minimum of 2' x 2' x 4' for small breeds or four times the size of the rabbit when it is stretched out. Include extra room if your rabbit will be using a litter box. Cages come in a variety of types and are usually constructed of wire and/or wood with a removable sliding tray on the bottom. Wire cages are the easiest to keep clean. Wood tends to absorb bacteria. Be sure that the wire is very sturdy. Chicken wire is not recommended. Wire floors, however, will put pressure on the rabbit’s feet. Wire floors should be at least partially covered with an old towel, blanket, or even plexiglass to provide your rabbit with a resting place off of the wire.
The cage should also be equipped with either heavy food crocks (light weight bowls will be turned over) or bowls which lock onto the side of the cage. A water bottle hung from the side of the cage is usually better than a water bowl. A hay rack may also be attached to the side of the cage to keep the cage floor and the hay a little cleaner.
The cage should be located either in the house or on a covered and enclosed porch or lanai. If the cage is on the porch or lanai, however, you will need to bring it inside during extreme hot or cold temperatures.
Rabbits should not be confined to their cages 24 hours a day. They will need time out of the cage each day to play, exercise, and interact with their family. An untrained rabbit should not run loose 24 hours a day either. All rabbit owners will need to ‘bunny-proof’ their homes. This means putting up or concealing all electrical cords to protect them from being chewed and to protect your rabbit from injury. In addition, you will need to put anything that you do not want to be chewed, or that could be a danger, out of the rabbit’s reach. Potentially toxic house plants should not be accessible. If you allow your rabbit outside, it will need constant supervision to protect it from the neighbor’s dog or other animals that might enter the yard. Do not let your rabbit in the grass if it has been sprayed with any pesticides!
Diet
The rabbit’s basic diet should consist of good quality pellets (18% minimum fiber), fresh vegetables, fruit, water, and unlimited amounts of grass or Timothy hay. This type of hay is preferred to alfalfa because it is lower in calories and because pellets already contain alfalfa. Hay is essential to keep the digestive tract in good working order and help the rabbit pass ingested fur, which may cause blockage. This is extremely important. Unlike cats, rabbits cannot vomit or ‘bring up’ a hairball. Under no circumstances should you feed your rabbit ‘people treats!’
You should feed at least three different types of vegetables daily. One of the vegetables should contain Vitamin A. Provide one cup of vegetables per 4 lbs. of body weight. Below is a list of recommended vegetables.
Basil
Beet greens (tops)*
Bok choy
Broccoli (mostly leaves/stems)*
Brussel sprouts
Carrot and carrot tops*
Cilantro
Collard greens*
Endive*
Escarole
Green peppers
Mint
Mustard greens*
Parsley
Pea pods (flat edible type)*
Peppermint leaves
Raddichio
Radish tops
Raspberry leaves
Romaine lettuce (no iceberg or light colored leaf)*
Watercress*
* Contains Vitamin A
Fruits should be limited to 1 - 2 TBS. per 5 lbs. of body weight. Below is a list of recommended fruits.
Apple
Blueberries
Melon
Orange (including peel)
Papaya (fresh or dried)*
Peach
Pear
Pineapple*
Plums
Raspberries
Strawberries
*Contains an enzyme that helps dissolve food and mucus that bind fur and cause intestinal blockage.
Handling
Although most rabbits do not like to be carried (they would rather huddle next to us to be sociable), it is necessary to pick up our rabbits from time to time. There are a couple of methods to do this, just remember the rabbit will feel more secure if he feels you have a good solid grip on him. He doesn’t want to be dropped!
The method that works best for picking up larger rabbits is to lift the front of the body by placing one hand under the chest while scooping up the hindquarters with the other hand. Never let the back feet dangle or he will begin to kick. Rabbits have delicate skeletons and sudden kicking can cause serious injury such as a broken back.
Another method which works well with small rabbits is to pick them up from the front. Facing the rabbit, put one hand under the front legs and the other under the rump. Bring him toward you and rest his body against your chest for support.
Health Care
With proper care your pet rabbit should live an average of 8 to 10 years. Some have been known to live even longer.
There are no required vaccinations for rabbits. A health check from a veterinarian familiar with rabbits is recommended once a year. Should you notice any problems with the eyes, ears, and skin, or if your rabbit has diarrhea or nasal discharge, consult your veterinarian immediately. These could be signs of serious problems.
Spaying and neutering are recommended once your rabbit has reached sexual maturity between 4 and 6 months of age. It is a safe procedure, but should be performed by a veterinarian who is experienced with rabbits. There are many benefits from this surgery for both pet and owner.
Cleaning and Grooming
The rabbit’s cage should be thoroughly cleaned once a week. Rabbits are very sensitive to smells from chemical disinfectants. They can become very sick and even die from inhaling strong chemical fumes. Therefore, all traces of cleaning disinfectants must be thoroughly rinsed away.
The litter pan should be cleaned every few days or daily depending on the type of litter used. Distilled white vinegar does the best job and is the easiest way to remove stains from litter pans. Again, remember to rinse thoroughly.
You will observe your rabbit frequently grooming himself like a cat. Also like cats, rabbits will not need a bath very often. When it is necessary, use a rabbit shampoo. Shampoos made for other pets or humans can be too harsh. Rinse and dry thoroughly. You may also spot bathe your rabbit when a full bath is unnecessary.
Check your rabbit’s eyes, ears, and nose weekly for signs of discharge. Every other month check for sores on the bottom of feet (sore hocks), make sure teeth are properly aligned (there should be an overbite or he will not be able to chew properly), and check for fleas, mites, or other parasites (consult your veterinarian for treatment).
Nails should also be trimmed every other month. Only cut the clear part of the nail--avoid cutting the pink area which is the vein. It sometimes helps to lay the rabbit in your lap on its back when you do this. You may want to have a veterinarian or experienced groomer demonstrate the procedure the first time.
Litter Training
Rabbits are not difficult to litter train. By nature they tend to do their eliminating in the same place. Notice which corner of the cage your rabbit is using and place the litter pan there. During the training period also place one outside the cage in the area where he is playing or exploring.
You may also begin your training session by placing some hay in one end of the box. Put the rabbit in the box. As he eats the hay and then eliminates, he will make the connection. Once he has the idea, you will not need the hay.
As with litter training or housebreaking any animal, be patient. Do not leave him unsupervised during the training period. When a mistake occurs say "No" and direct him toward the litter pan.
It is very common for rabbits to nibble their litter. Because of this and because chemical deodorizers contained in some litters can be toxic, you must use a rabbit safe litter. Clay cat litters are too dusty and clumping litters can cause blockage if eaten. Pine and cedar chips emit gases that cause liver damage. Corn cob litter is indigestible and can also cause blockage. The House Rabbit Society has done research on available litters and concluded that litter made from recycled newspaper pulp or products is safe, absorbent, and effective in controlling odors. Plain newspaper is absorbent but does not control odors. If you prefer a wood litter, Aspen wood is also proven rabbit safe.
Behavior and Body Language
One of the most common misconceptions about rabbits is that they are passive cuddly creatures that like to be carried around. Rabbits, just like dogs and cats, can be very affectionate or very independent. Most of them prefer not to be carried around, however. This does not mean that your new pet is unfriendly or aloof. Rabbits love attention, but you must be willing to get down on their level to interact with them. Then you will find that your rabbit loves to be petted and enjoys all the time you spend interacting with him.
Physical and mental stimulation are important in raising a happy contented rabbit. Without any stimulation to meet physical and mental needs, rabbits will become bored and depressed. The result will be a rabbit suffering from stress or a rabbit that resorts to destructive behavior to amuse himself. This can be avoided by allowing your pet to get daily exercise outside of his cage and by providing toys in and out of the cage. Rabbits love to chew. At a pet store you can find wooden chew sticks and vegetable chew sticks to provide an outlet for this need, but don’t stop there. Rabbits are very curious and love to explore. Boxes, baskets, and paper bags are only a few examples of inexpensive items that your pet can investigate. If possible, build a tunnel or a ramp for your rabbit to climb on. Some rabbits love to bunch up an old towel or blanket or simply burrow under it. Even baby toys will suffice as long as they cannot be chewed apart. Rabbits also love things they can push, pull, or toss. Use your imagination.
Rabbits can co-exist with other pets in the household or with other rabbits. However, only females that have been bonded at a very young age can safely occupy the same cage. Your rabbit may not immediately accept a new pet in the house even if it is another rabbit. The recommended readings that follow provide detailed information on introducing rabbits to each other and to other pets.
Rabbits have a body language all their own and can be very entertaining to watch. They may not bark or meow, but they can tell you a lot about their feelings if you observe their actions.
Sniffing
- Could be annoyed or just talking to you.Grunts - Usually angry, be careful or he may bite!
Shrill scream - Hurt or dying.
Circling - Circling your feet usually indicates sexual behavior or love.
Spraying - Males that are not neutered will mark female rabbits in this manner as well as their territory. Female also spray
Chinning - Their chins contain scent glands, so they rub their chin on items to indicate that they belong to them. This is similar to a cat rubbing its head on people and objects.
Pulling fur - Usually only unspayed females do this to build a nest.
Hop/dance - Pure joy and happiness!
Begging - Rabbit wants a treat. Do not overindulge your rabbit's "sweet tooth." He may refuse to eat the food that is good for him.
Droppings - If droppings are not in a pile, but scattered, your rabbit is marking his territory. This may happen when a rabbit enters a new environment. If he shares a house with another rabbit, it may always be a nuisance.
Stomping - The rabbit is frightened and warning all other rabbits in the vicinity of the danger. Stomping can also be a sign that he is mad at you!
Teeth grinding - Indicates contentment. This is similar to a cat purring. a loud grinding sound indicates pain.
Playing - Rabbits like to push or toss objects around. They may also race madly around the house, jumping on and off of couches or chairs.
Don't Touch - Rabbits have their own way of arranging their space and may nto like it when you move things around in their cage. As creatures of habit, they like things to stay just where they put them.
Source:
House Rabbit Society
http://www.rabbit.org